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Channel: How DO you make those Animal Costumes? (Fursuits)
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How suicidal would it be to take a "materials only" commission so I can learn?

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Hey all!

I'm pretty new to the furry fandom in general and I'm considering getting into suit building as a hobby. I've never made one before, mostly due to the massive price tag of the materials (I'm nearing the end of a college education, so I'm pretty dang broke). Commissions are one way to cover the materials, but I would never offer a commission on something I have no experience with. But the other day I had an idea... what if I only charge for the materials and not my time as a learning experience?

I consider myself a moderately skilled craftsperson; not brilliant in anything, but definitely capable. If I only charged for materials, someone would get a massive discount on their suit and I would get a learning experience without having to pay for it. I realize of course that there is a massive time commitment, but I am willing to do it. I already have experience sewing, sculpting, painting, and a variety of other skills necessary for the task as well as most of the basic equipment. I supplement my income with commissions during breaks from school, so I'm used to working with customers. In addition, I have done several similar projects (animal foam masks, rigid masks, etc) and am currently building mini heads (aka puppets :P) using the same techniques I would use on a full-sized head so I will have some experience with them. If I decide to do this, it would be over the summer so I don't have the pressure of school over my head and also have some time to find a client and get prepared. In summary, I feel confident in my ability to provide a decent product and that this system is mutually beneficial for me and whoever commissions me.

So what do you guys think?
Is this idea suicidal?
Is it fair to the client?

If it helps I would limit the project(s) to a partial, only sell to someone who was 18 or older, and ask for all funds up front (and subsequently provide them with receipts for everything).

Changing from a dropped crotch to normal crotch. How to?

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Hi there guys, quick question.


I made my fursuit with a dropped crotch, which would ordinarily be fine, except my tail is separate from the body.

Since my tailbelt goes around my middle it looks as iff Cassius' tail is coming out of the middle of his back, not the base.


I don't have enough brown fur left over to make another tail to attach to the body (it has been discontinued says Swincraft2) so instead I'm wanting to alter it to a normal crotch.

My question would be, how do I go about this? Should I make a DTD of the tops of my legs/pelvis and pin then sew?

Just wondering if others have encountered/done this before and what they did to remedy it.

Anyone have experience attaching saberteeth to a DVC mask?

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I received a wonderful set of hinged big cat masks yesterday. They look wonderful! I'll be padding and adding additional padding inside before sending them up to Signal.

I am a bit puzzled as to how to attach a set of the large saber teeth to them. For those who have experience with it, should I cut the teeth down at an angle, should I cut a notch in the teeth, both, dremmel an indent into the lower jaw, or any other methods?

Solid Color Characters

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A friend of mine wants me to put together a mask (fursuit head) of her character but what worries me is that her character is one solid, very dark brown without markings of any kind.

How do I keep the head from becoming a big brown blob in photographs? For instance, what are the key areas to shadow and highlight with dry brushing?

The character: (just one drawing)

The Quest For Fur

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I have a convention coming up here in April and I've taken it upon myself to have 2 fursuit heads done in time for the convention. Money isn't an issue, what is is finding the different shades of brown and grey I'll be needing for both heads. I've looked through some of the larger fur providing sites and so far I'm not finding much that comes close to the four browns and two greys I'll need..

Here are the colors:

Enki: Enki's Colors

Merla: Merla's Colors

I actually did manage to find this really nice chocolate brown from fabricempire.com has anyone used this brown? http://www.fabricempire.com/faux-fur-shaggy-chocolate.aspx

Sewing Machine Sale!

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Just an FYI situation- joann's is currently offering some sewing machines up at a fairly good discount! (20-40% off, which is pretty awesome. I know they normally have a "40%" coupon they run every week, but you can't use it on any sewing machines.)

Also, while I have your attention- does anyone have any input on this particular machine?
Link below:
http://www.joann.com/singer-curvytm-8763-sewing-machine/2458347.html#prefn1=isSale&prefn2=isProject&prefv2=false&sz=23&prefv1=true&start=3

I'm thinking of buying it, but just want to know if it will put up with fursuit work. :)

Thanks everyone!

Clay, clay and more clay.

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I am getting ready to start making masks with resin, and was wondering approximately how much clay I would need for a basic canine sculpt? I have done some looking and couldn't find out how many pounds I needed. All help is appreciated!

Realistic shenanigans

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Some sneaky pics of a realistic big cat I'm working on. I've never done anything remotely realistic before and haven't cast anything in resin in 2 years. 10 pounds of clay!!!!

clay sculptkittywip

How do you make some lightweight joints for Wings / Custom Dummy? Click-in place ones?

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Hi there.

I am looking into how to make joints for wings that click into place and can be manually moved by hand to a different pose.

Also I am looking into how to make a custom dummy that is pose-able with joints.

Any ideas on how I would make this dummy very easy to change (weight/size-wise) is also very helpful! My current idea is just stuffing it with plastic bags which I can remove or add to it. But it'd be a little difficult keeping them on unless I used tape and knifed it all the time, which isn't probably the best idea that's out there.

I have no idea what materials to use and what tools I need, or if there's pre-made things I can put together, a very detailed tutorial will help me a lot!

Canine sculpt critique?

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So, I'm not completely new to LJ, this is my second account, i lost email to the first one (kornwolf).
i want to start my second fursuit, the first resin based one, so i began making the sculpt, just a generic canine. i know it's not completely symmetric, but i've done what i could.

CHaracter i will be making is him: http://sta.sh/01to7s6rv2bi, but im maybe going to sell cheaply some blanks and make a fursuit for my friend too, so i'm not making this sculpt specifically for him. ah, and another question, how to make hair like he has?

Chopped up DTD

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The people on Facebook have been of little help.

I received a DTD in the mail and discovered that the customer did not cut it as it should have been- instead, all of the arms, legs, and even the stomach are cut into a pattern. It's all barely hanging together, but I cannot tape it back together (there's seriously no way without ruining it).

What can I do at this point? Should I just use it as a pattern?

EDIT:: I sent them a link to Kilcodo's fursuit tutorial, the same one I used for my own DTD. It's going to be a plantigrade plush-type suit, so if it's a little big that may not be a problem?

Dragon tail production notes

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I just finished the base for a new dragon tail, and it's about time document my process.  I want to show everybody how I do it so other people can learn from me, and so people can help me by providing input or suggestions for improvement.


Lots of pictures below the cut!

The bulk of this tail is made out of 3" super soft foam from https://www.foambymail.com/.  I have made tails from the green Jo-Anns foam (heavy and expensive), some cheap stuff from Home Depot (light but lifeless), and Smooth-On's Flex Foam-IT 3 expanded in a custom mold (HEAVY and stiff).  By far this is my favorite.  They weren't kidding when they named it Super Soft!  It is lighter than the green Jo-Anns foam by a measure, but isn't stiff and lifeless like the cheap foam from Home Depot.


004
I cut two tail shapes out of the 3" foam.  Note the hash marks: they will help me line up the pieces when I glue.

007
Glued together with 3M 90 spray adhesive.  I don't recommend this adhesive.  They don't sell 3M 74 in California, and I've been too cheap to import it.  It's about time I do, however, because the 90 is a little frustrating.  It is very important to align your pieces as flat and straight as possible as to not cause your finished tail to twist or lean a direction.  It's best not to use hot glue here so your tail doesn't have hard beads all the way down the spine.

009'
After the glue has dried, I drew out the width of the tail down the spine and underside.  Using a ruler, I measured the height of the tail, then transferred that measurement to the same place on the spine/underside.  I did this in a few points, then connected the dots.

010
The tail with the excess foam trimmed off.

012
Here I start using scissors to round out the corners.  Snipping at a 45 degree angle helps keep it evenly tapered.  My scissors had a rubber coating in the handle, but it can still help to put a band-aid on the base of your thumb so you don't develop a blister.

014
This was after about an hour of trimming.  What a mess!  I should do this over a tarp next time.

015
2 hours of trimming.  In the past, I have relied heavily on a Sureform Shaver to smooth out the surface.  However this foam cannot be shaved with a shaver; it is too soft.  If you have patience, you can get a decent surface with just scissors.

016
My client was my boyfriend, so I put the tail against his butt to figure out how to shape the base.  The bigger of a wedge you remove from the base, the lower the tail will hang.  If you have a shapely booty, you will have to carve a concave shape to account for that.

018
I tried something a little experimental here.  Since this foam was so soft, I thought it would be a good idea to reinforce the base a little bit so it didn't sag.  I carved a 1/2" valley in the base of the tail that I nestled a hunk of L200 foam into.  I glued it with more spray adhesive, then trimmed the L200 flush to the base.

020
An oval of thick craft foam caps off the base of the tail.  I threw in the towel dealing with 3M 90 at this point, so I just drowned everything in hot glue.

021
The tail was a little bit stiff, so I went in and hollowed out some valleys inside the tail.  In hindsight I should have done this before I even started carving.  Next time I will plan for this, because taking away some foam did add flexibility to the tail.

022
Oh my gracious this is an awful picture, I apologize.  I pinned pieces of fleece to each hemisphere of the tail, trying to keep it nice and smooth.  The purpose of the fleece is to make the surface as smooth as possible, and to protect the foam from UV light.

023
Trimming as I went, I used a Henson Stitch to bring the pieces of fleece together.  A bead of hot glue keeps it secure against the base.  I was scrapping together fleece I had lying around, so normally the halves wouldn't be different colors like this.

024
Tail with fleece stitched to it.  A line of hot glue holds it to the base.  The tail is really soft and nice at this point!  Shoot, you can just attach a base and stop here if you want.  My buddies and I each took a turn hugging this soft fuzzy mass.

029
Its time to make a spandex sock!  I accidentally threw away my sock pattern, so I had to make a new one.  I draped spandex over half of the tail and pinned it to the center seam.  I took a soft pencil and marked where all the pins were.

032
It is difficult to see in this picture, but I cleaned up my line and folded the fabric in half.  I cut out the pieces with a 1/2" seam allowance.

033
I use a serger almost exclusively to sew spandex.  I purchased it to sew zentais and bodysuits.  For something simple like a tail sock, you should be able to get away with a zigzag stitch on a standard sewing machine.  I do not recommend hand sewing spandex.
It's important to test your stitching on some scrap fabric.  I had to adjust my differential feed a little bit to stop the pulling.

035
Tail sock all stitched up!  I left a generous amount past the base.

036
It was a little loose in some places.  Easy fix!  I put the tail on inside out, then pinched and pinned it until it was smooth.

037
I marked where all of my pins were...

038
Then cleaned up my lines and re-pinned.  Sergers trim as they stitch, so I just chopped off a little bit of the tail tip here.

040
After a couple rounds of pinning and stitching, my sock was looking good!

043
So I wouldn't have to go through all that business again, I transferred my pattern to a piece of paper.  Not pictured is the pattern I used to cut out the foam halves.

045
Next up was the base.  I laminated a piece of spandex to a piece of cotton canvas using a mild spray adhesive.  I did a spiraling stitch to permanently attach them together.

046
My boyfriend requested that the tail butt right against his belt line so it didn't bounce around.  I like to use 2" webbing here.  I can vouch for the polyester webbing from Strapworks.com.  (Their nylon webbing is so stiff my sewing machine can't punch through it, but you may want to order some samples.)

047
I sewed the top of the loops over and over again.  You can't sew the webbing flat against the base or else you'll never fit your belt through the loops, so I pushed the webbing up a teeny bit to add some material.  Masking tape works great to hold it in place.

050
Here the loops are stitched on and the base is trimmed to fit.  You have to seal off the ends of the webbing with a lighter so they won't fray (which I totally forgot to to with this tail!)  After the base is trimmed and you're happy with how it hangs and how a belt passes through the loops, hot glue the everloving crap out of it.  Seriously, dump a couple sticks in there.

051
I slipped the sock on, pinned it near the base, and trimmed it almost flush to the surface.

052
A ladder stitch secures the sock to the base.  This is a little tricky with a straight needle; I need to buy a curved one.

053
Ta daaa!

054
And here's the finished basic tail!  Next up is decorating with airbrushing, scales, and other fun stuff.

-----

So yeah!  This is the eighth dragon tail I've made with these methods.  There are a few steps that I would like to improve upon, most notably the fleecing step. Hand stitching the fleece on takes two hours.  Two hours!!  If I could speed up or eliminate that step, I'd be very happy. I want to try layering two spandex socks to see if that will make it smooth instead of using fleece.

Something else I want to try is an articulated skeleton according to this tutorial:  http://rarsuit.livejournal.com/44876.html I've actually made TWO skeletons in the past, but every time I put the foam on, it turned into a stiff, lifeless foam bat.  I didn't have this Super Soft foam before, though!  I'll dig out my rivet gun and try again.

One last thing I want to talk about:  I have two ways I make the tail bases.  One is to have the tail hang off the belt, and the other is to have the the tail right against the belt.  When the tail hangs, you have a nice, graceful silhouette while you're standing still.  (like this:  http://www.furaffinity.net/view/11743647/)  However when you start walking, the tail will bounce and tilt all around, breaking the illusion.  I have a few ideas in my brain to fix this problem, like designating a set of "tail pants" with snaps or velcro on the butt that keeps the tail in place.  Stairs would become a problem for long and low tails, though...  When the tail is right against your belt, it stays stiff and happy while you walk, but it looks like it's jutting off your back instead of being an extension of your spine.  (like this:  http://www.furaffinity.net/view/11686752/)  It's also a little harder to sit down in.  My boyfriend is fully anticipating having to unbuckle his belt every time he gets ready to sit down.  With a hanging tail, you can just flip it up against your back and lean against it.

If anybody has any constructive criticism or suggestions for improvement, I would really love to hear them.  Sorry about the walls 'o text, I just like to be thorough ._.

Finding supplies in Canada - mostly Ontario

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In my costume-building adventure, I have found some nice Canadian retailers.
Here are my favourites:

Lens Mill stores ( http://www.lensmill.com/ ) Wide variety of fabrics and foams of varying thicknesses,
with a little bit of nice fur (if you do some diggin'). I live in Cambridge though, and the amount of good stuff might vary.


Sculpture Supply Canada ( http://www.sculpturesupply.com/ ) THEY HAVE EVERYTHING! Smooth-On 300, 325, 300Q, 305, The Ed Head, latex, silicone, Smooth on starter kits, mannequins, prosthetics, clays, animatronic supplies, I could go on forever. They also have an online store as well as a physical one in Etobicoke.

And there is Michael's too, but you knew that already!

Happy Huntin'

Melting clay in mouth issue?

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I had purchased a fursuit head, tail, and feet paws back in December from a member on Furbuy. I had attended my first furry convention yesterday in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
At one point during the fursuit parade, we had to walk through the pool area that was pretty big in order to go all the way through the motel/hotel. I guess a couple hours later at the masquerade, I noticed that the inside of my head's mouth was a different color. Apparently the maker of my suit used clay that needs to sit a while in order to air dry and then painted over it with black paint. As a result, the black paint melted and so did the WHITE clay on the inside, and I also noticed the red hair ties that they used for the lips/inside of the mouth. The white clay was all over the teeth, tongue, and other parts of the jaw as well as my fingers when I reached inside to see what the problem was. I had contacted the suit maker, and they said that I need to repaint the whole thing myself or just take it all off and do what I want with it. I never wore the head for more than 10 minutes, and had it on for about 6 hours for suiting yesterday.

I asked my friend, Flurra, for help and she's not really sure what I should do either and told me to come here. So do you guys have any ideas for me? I was planning on selling this suit because I plan on getting one of my actual 'sona. Now I'm not sure if I even can.

update on Sly then I have questions involving a foam head and faux fur/fur pile

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Hi all, I've started another fursuit project in addition to my Sly Cosplay. I'm having to wait to order supplies due to my finical situation so I don't really have much progress on him to show you all for Sly. Though so far I've made a pattern based off one of my shirts for his shirt, downloaded a pattern for his hat and made a pattern for his boots based off some tabi boots I had a while back. I talked to a cobbler(shoe maker) in my area and he's agreed to put soles on the bottoms for me so my feet don't have to suffer throughout the con without some padding. I'm browsing for faux fur colors and haven't completely come to a decision on what to order for his fur color. I've messaged a few people on FA and deviant art and most of my responses have been sorry but, the fur was discontinued. I've requested swatches from a few places though with my knowledge of how things print out I have a feeling the greys I've requested are too dark though I won't know till they arrive. If you can help me find some fur in the correct color I'd appreciate it tremendously!. I don't know much about pile length though I think I want something thats medium to long pile especially for the legs and tail but you experienced fursuit makers feel free to advise me on a good length. I don't really care the fur type though I was thinking of airbrushing his mask on.

That's about all for Sly and now back to my other project. Right now I'm working on a toony Great Dane fursuit. (Though with my hight he'll look like a midget)
Feel free to give input, I realize the cheeks are uneven I'm still trimming the foam though I think I might keep them that way to add to the goofy effect. I'm planning to decrease his overbite and make the moving jaw into a articulate one instead of the initial design so it'll work better. (I think my mannequin head stretched it out so it doesn't work the same)
I originally built it using the Matrices foam bucket head tutorial though I goofed and had to alter the top so it would actually look semi round.

I've sculpted a nose and ridiculously long tongue and they are prepped for HydroCal so they can be cast in silicone when I get supplies. I'm debating on sculpting or buying a taxidermy jaw set for him.
I'm waiting to add the eyebrows till i get some magnetic strips so I can alter expression. I'm also planning to put a fan in the muzzle and possibly the top of the head. Anyone have any tips for mounting a fan in foam? I was thinking for the muzzle I'd line it with plastic mesh and just hook the fan in that way. Though I'm still not sure about the top of the head. Keep in mind it's very thin foam glued together it's not the same 1inch foam I used for the rest of the head. I'm panning to follow Matrices's tutorial for the eyes as well.
Now to the section I posted here about.
I'm planning to make him a fawn great dane so short tan or camel fur. I'm planning to airbrush the muzzle, eyes, tip of his tail and his back to get the different colors. My big issue is I'm not familiar with faux fur and the pile lengths. I feel like seal would probably be too short unless I used it on his belly and head but, again I'm not sure. I was thinking of ordering from Monterey Mills since someone on deviant said theirs is easier to airbrush on.
Now for my last question I want to make his ears where I can move them I came across Matrices's tutorial for moving ears though I'm not sure how I'd transfer that information to foam. Can someone explain how I'd install the pulley system in the head so I could make his ears move? Also what would be a good material to make the ears out of? I've been debating on running a wire through some silicone or using some plastic mesh.

I will appreciate anything you can give me thank you

Reference photos for fur:
37349_SlyCooper

FlexFoam-iT Expanding Foam for heads, is it safe?

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I've been experimenting with all different ways to make fursuit heads, from resin to plaster, and now I want to give expanding foam a try, but I've noticed it's not very popular.. Is it safe to cast a head out of Smooth-On's FlexFoam-iT expanding foam? This stuff,

http://www.smooth-on.com/Rigid-and-Flexible/c10_1121/index.html

I know Temperance made some of her old suits from it and I actually own one of her suits from 2010-ish, not sure if it has the same stuff in it but I've had no problems with it. If it is safe to use, is there anything I should know about it? So I don't kill myself before it cures.

Sewing Machine Help?

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So I'm working on a Husquvarna 116 emerald.  It has an automatic buttonhole foot which I have never used until yesterday, the only problem is that it worked once (before I had to leave the house) and so when I came back to my machine today, using the same fabric and no ones touched it since yesterday when I left it, it suddenly doesnt want to make button holes anymore.  Its like the foot doesnt catch the fabric to move it under the needle, its just sitting there.

Help?

It's a purple kitty

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Some things were easier than I thought they would be, some things were much harder. I've been commissioned for a realistic resin head so I decided to take the first pull from the mold and just go nuts on it. I think it turned out alright! The jaw is really sensitive, it's really nice after so long fussing with foam to have a nice moving jaw. Crits always welcome! I had a lot of trouble trying to sort out big cat ears and most of the airbrushing was a "Hey I wonder what happens if I did this!" and I airbrushed the NFT hair with highlights.

purple1purple2purple3purple4

Bootpaw Problems

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I'm going to start off by saying that these are boots I made with the intent to both learn and to sell them at FWA 2014. They're built on a ladies' 10 boot, so I can't wear them myself (I can't even stand properly in them).


I have had trouble with these things since I started. They are my first pair of feetpaws, so I know there's a learning curve. While I was planning to sell them at a discounted price, this last flaw might be the final straw.

DSCN1879

That is the second boot, with the toes snugly draped, the boot-portion glued, and a triangle shaped gap about an inch and a half high between the sections. I don't know why I did that, I taped the boots to get the pattern for them, but I did.

DSCN1880

You can see the gap a bit better here, along with the strip I cut off along the finished boot to better hide the zipper. When I originally cut them I was planning to fold the edges under, but not only did it do nothing to hide the zipper, it covered it in hot glue (I've since found a better method). My plan was to make a section and butt the edges together over the zipper..

DSCN1882

...except even with the edges firmly together, the gap is kind of obvious. You can also see where I had to add a patch to the boot (its on both boots; I don't know why I cut my pattern short there), which is my issue with patching the small gap. Namely, you can see the patch.

So, in recap: There's a gap in my boot. The fur I'm using is a short beaver, which does pretty much nothing to hide the seams. This, plus being unable to hide the zipper fully, has me frustrated.

Should I patch it anyway, obvious seams and all?
I do have a long pile fur. Would it work to drape it over the tops of the toes like it was meant to be? (Basically, furry fringe at the top of the foot)
Would customers care as much as I do about the line where the fur meets over the zipper?
Should I just tear it all off and try again? I do have enough of the fur, except one of the boots is finished save for covering the zipper, and a big part of me winces at undoing all of that. That and I'm not sure what sort of damage the boot underneath will sustain when I tear all that hot glue off.
Should I just hang them on a shelf and call it a learning experience?

First head redlines wanted

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