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Accidental drop crotch in body suit?

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Howdy folks! First time I've posted here but I need some help, this is my first time making a body suit, and I love how its turned out so far, however I have one major issue, I think I accidently made the crotch into a drop crotch. ;-;
drop
please ignore the zip i'm changing that shortly x3 I'm just wondering how would I go about changing that? On the ductape dummy I made, it wasn't a drop crotch and went up my legs, but now I've got this horrible bump and just space between my legs.
This is what I originally want:
what i want

Where the ivory is against my inner thigh,

What can I do to change this? ;-;

Casting supplie amount needed

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Okay so I know the title is confusing but Im wanting to make a canine skull mask cast in resin. I noticed they had a starting casting kit with the silicone,resin,etc. Im sure you all know what im talking about. Would this be enough to make the mask? I dont plan on making duplicates just a one time mask. If I need to buy more Im willing but I dont want to have a bunch of leftover materials.

Paper clay question

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I wanted to double check to make sure I'm on the right track here. I need something light to make a small beak so I was leaning towards using paper clay, since I don't have the means of casting one from resin right now. I know it dries hard as a rock, but I'm worried about what happens to it when the suit head would be washed. As anyone had experience with paper clay materials that are a permanent fixture to their suits?

Organs?

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I'm making a fursuit of thiskid

I was planning on making a little pocket-like thing in the belly for the organs to sit, and I'd put a few led's here or there to make it glow. I'd get a cheap shower liner and sew it around thepocket wso it's transparent, but not as thick ass vinyl. I was going to install a zipper on one of the sides so you could take out the intestines and play with them. The problem is, the only way I know how to make things like that is to take pantyhose, stuff it, sew it into one big line/rope, spraypaint that, then add some touch-ups with acrylic, then seal it with a layer of latex. I know lots of people are allergaic to latex. Is there an alternative I can use?

(same person wiith the black fur question, i just found my account)

"Marmot" fur suppliers?

fur shades??

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I'm looking into buying a rust shade of fur! I checked in the few local fabric stores and online, but everywhere seems to be out of stock or only have burnt orange.. I have a few that I found but before I buy, I want to know if people have experience with what is available to me.
The furs I had in mind were the Mendel's Punky Muppet in Copper, CR's Rust Fox, and usaknit's Rust Shag. If anyone chould show me examples of these furs that would be great!

In the market for a trimmer

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For you suit makers I'm in the market for a new shaver/trimmer/clippers not sure what the correct term is. I have an Andis Easy Style (which I think is actually for people) which is OKAY (as in it gets the job done) but I'm in the market for something better. Price range probably want to spend about $50 but willing to go to $100 because I plan on making more heads and I know shaving makes a big difference even though I hate it. ><

I've seen some heads where the shave is SUPER short and close and flawless and it makes me drool. One person (whose heads looked as I describe) I think mentioned using like a horse trimmer? Does that sound crazy? Their heads looked amazing though. Just wondering what you all use and what you'd recommend. Thanks!

Also any tips to get the best shave aside from going slow and using guards and oiling and all that stuff? I'd say my stuff is improving (this is like my third head) but I /still/ feel like there is room for improvement. I'd love to get my stuff really nice some day!

Oh, I'd like to add I also just read that a few people use two blades. My clipper only has one blade that is adjustable from #000-#1 is that adequate for fake fur trimming or do I need other blades? I think I read somewhere someone uses a 10 and 7f something like that? I need help I think. ;P

And actually another question on that note : do I need to get clippers or a trimmer? Right now I have clippers.

WalMart Foam Warning

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Just a warning for anyone who buys the rolled upholstery foam from Walmart for fursuit-making. I keep finding shards of wood embedded into the foam, I guess from the manufacturing process? They are in little sharp bundles and fairly small (biggest one I found was 1/4"). I've been heavily inspecting each piece of foam before gluing it, but I just wanted to warn others who may buy it to just check it over before working with it!

Making fursuit-heads with a 3d-printer - a short tutorial about 3d-printing

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Originally posted by tioh at Making fursuit-heads with a 3d-printer - a short tutorial about 3d-printing

I'm making 3d-models for fursuits and hand puppets for about a year now and I print them on my FlashForge Creator 3D-printer. I have made 3d-models for head-bases, claws, noses, eyelids, footpads and teeth. I've tried several materials and settings to get the best printing results. It was a long learning-process. It's time to share my experiences.


Why 3D-printing:

Initially, I'll have to say that 3D-printing for the construction of a single fursuit head is not faster, cheaper or simpler than any other construction method. If you want to make many items, it may be worth the costs. A big advantage of 3D-printing is that you can recreate a 3d-printd part again and again - this makes it much easier to try new things (without having the worry about breaking something that cannot be replaced) and it makes repairs very simple. I bought the 3d-printer to have more spare time - the printer can do the work while I do something else - so far that worked very well.




How to create a 3d-model:

I start to model a head-base as NURBS model (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-uniform_rational_B-spline). Unlike polygon-models, it is much easier to change the shape of a NURBS-model without having to adjust a lot of points. I could do the same with a polygon-model, but this saves me a lot of time - it requires software that can handle it. In the first step, only the outer surface is defined.


 photo tutorial_3d-druck_01_zpsohxt5yu7.jpg

When I'm satisfied with the surface the model is converted into a polygon model.
 photo tutorial_3d-druck_02_zpspyxfwxql.jpg
The resulting polygon-mesh is then made to a model with volume - a wall thickness of 2,5-4mm works for me (3mm is usually ideal).
 photo tutorial_3d-druck_03_zpsfd99ljhh.jpg
All polygons should now consist of three points and the surface should point outward. Only 2 polygons should meet at each edge.
 photo tutorial_3d-druck_04_zpsdm0abpng.jpg
This model is then exported in OBJ-format
In NetFabb I check whether the model has flaws - and repair them if necessary.

 photo tutorial_3d-druck_05_zpsbaon8bnb.jpg

The model is then cut to have a surface that can stand on the print bed.


 photo tutorial_3d-druck_06_zps0hcymtzz.jpg

The models are aligned on the print bed in the 3D-printing software.


 photo tutorial_3d-druck_07_zpsfrvgcljm.jpg

For printing, the model is divided into layers that are printed from the bottom up.


 photo tutorial_3d-druck_08_zpsjtyzv2tj.jpg

I mostly use an old version of LightWave Modeler to model - because I know the software and already have it. A cheaper alternative to the LighWave Modeler is
Metasequoia http://metaseq.net/en/index.html

What software is used does not matter much - as long as it can produce a polygon-model in OBJ- or STL-format.




Free tools to create 3d-models:



Materials for FDM / FFF printers:


What materials can be used for 3D printing depends primarily on the 3d printer. Most important is the printing temperature and the stiffness of the filament. Some printers are built for PLA only and are not able to print at higher temperatures. Some printer cannot use flexible filament.


PLA


  • Prints at low temperature (200-230 °C)


  • Based on corn starch


  • Can be easily printed compared to ABS filament.


  • May break when it is printed too thin (you should have a minimum wall thickness of 2mm everywhere)


  • Nearly odorless during processing (I think it smells little like popcorn)


  • Does not warp much


  • Can be printed without heated plate - the best printing results are achieved when the extruded filament is cooled immediately after exiting the extruder


  • Can be sanded, drilled, painted.


Flexible PLA


  • Prints at low temperature (220-235 ° C)


  • Similar to rubber


  • Very flexible and resilient


  • Does not break


  • Warps during cooling


  • Not suitable for higher thinner structures


ABS


  • High printing temperature as PLA (235-255 ° C)


  • Stinks


  • Can be dissolved and glued with acetone.


  • More flexible than PLA


  • Warps during cooling (closed printing chamber and heated printing-plate should be used - the heat must remain in the printer)


Bendlay


  • Highprinting temperature (215-240 ° C - works best at 240 ° C)


  • Almost transparent


  • More flexible than PLA, stiffer than ABS


  • Stinks


  • Warps a lot while cooling


Nylon


  • Highprinting temperature (245-255 ° C)


  • Nearly odorless


  • Very strong and flexible material


  • Does not break


  • Above a 2mm wall thickness it can only be destroyedwith a tool


  • Warps while cooling (larger objects must be glued to the prind-bed)


  • Must be stored absolutely dry before processing


  • Can be dyed


I prefer PLA and Nylon. Nylon for fursuit heads, PLA for noses, eyelids, etc. Nylon is more difficult to process than PLA and requires some preparation. I print both on M3 Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape.




Tips for printing nylon

For Nylon I use a glue-stick on the blue tape and secure the tape with clamps on the print-bed. I print with raft and glue the first layer of the raft to the tape with superglue. The ends of the Nylon-print tend to shrink so much that they pull the tape from the print-bed – I make sure the ends are on the edge of the prind-bed – afte the 10th layer I use a clip to the end of the raft to hold it on the print-bed.


 photo 3d-printed_fursuit-head_v21_01_zpsavmuf29u.jpg


My experiences with different filament:

If the filament gets stuck in the extruder while printing it is caused by the material most of the time. It does not matter how expensive the filament is - many manufacturers provide extremely poor quality, I had

  • filament that broke during unwinding


  • extreme variations in the diameter


  • metal scraps in the material (that clogs the extruder)


  • oval Material


  • improperly stored material (nylon, with a lot of moisture)


I can only recommend the dealer to change when problems occur frequently. Currently I buy PLA for 19.95€ per kilo and I am very happy with it.




The FAQ:

Where can I print?

Commercial 3d-printing services:

Hack Spaces, FabLab

Find 3d-printer owners in the vicinity


Which 3D printer is right for me?

That depends on:

Compare the printers:


Where can you find 3d-models for printing?


Is PLA stable enough for a fursuit head?
A fursuit-head-base with 3mm wall thickness is very tough - similar to a resin head. I've stood on a head with 4mm wall thickness - 70kg did not break it. One head fell on the floor (from approx 1.70m height on hard stone floor) – it has not taken any damage.
 photo 3d-printed_fursuit-head_teeth_eyes2_zpsaf091c38.jpg

Why Nylon for a fursuit head?
I wanted a fursuit head that I could check in with normal luggage.
It should also be flexible and last a long time. Nylon meets these requirements.


 photo 3d-printed_fursuit-head_v21_03_zpslbafo5ee.jpg

How does 3d-printing work?

Most customer 3d-printers work by squeezing melted plastic filament through a thin nozzle (Fused Filament Fabrication).

How do I design a model for 3d-printing?


  • Make sure the model is seamless (no holes)

  • Make sure all polygones have 3 points

  • Make sure all polygones point to the outside

  • Eliminate non-manifold geometry

  • Make sure the model has no thin walls - the smallest feature is double the nozzle width

  • 45 degree rule (if you print without support-material overhangs should not exceed 45°)

  • For objects with multiple interlocking parts, design in your fit tolerance

  • Orient for the best resolution

  • Don’t use additional shells on fine featured models, like small text. It will obscure the detail.

  • Orient your model to minimize stress on the part by orienting the model so that the print lines are perpendicular to point of the pressure being applied

Flexible and cloudy resin troubles. :O?

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Hi!

I've been using easycast to make resin teeth, paw pads and claws. I've mixed in perfect measurements for longer than the period of time required (getting the edges scraped and mixed)... My silicone molds made with oomoo 25 are perfect in terms of smoothness (before the silicone molds were made, they were sanded, myself being a perfectionist took a lot of time and sanding to do this) and show no bumps or flaws at all.

When the resin cures ...
Paw pads mixed in with glitter are solid and finely made, although the rounded part I want clear is turning out cloudy. The back side are only clear on the flat surface in which I poured the resin into which is the clarity I want for the resin on the rounded side instead of the back side.

Teeth: Are much thinner than the paw pads and are always not curing fully, they are still flexible even after waiting for 72 hours they do not turn as solid as the paw pads. They are kind of yellow as well, even though I have measured and mixed things to what I felt was right.

I've attempted the same thing twice (paw pads and teeth) to be sure i'm mixing and pouring correctly with the same results.

Anyone else getting this result, how do I avoid it? Am I messing up something here? :/??

A bad experience with fur.

fursuit clippers

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So I've been asking around (mainly looking at heads that look how I'd like mine to look as far as shaving is concerned) and inquiring about the tools used. This model was recommended to me by one of the people that I asked -- http://www.amazon.com/Andis-2-Speed-Professional-Clipper-22360/dp/B0018KVI5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427129326&sr=8-1&keywords=Andis+AGC2+Super+2-Speed+Professional+Clipper+with+Detachable+Blade

Until recently I've been using clippers in the $30-50 range which -seems- average. I was really hoping to spend at MOST $100. However, I feel like with proper care and maintaining this will be a tool that will be an investment and should need to be replaced anytime soon. So. My question is -- does this seem like a good set of clippers to be buying? Is this overkill? I'm wondering if perhaps there is a cheaper model/type that is just as good? I'm trying to do more research this time around because I want to be SURE I get clippers I'm going to like this time. The other two I've owned have not had detachable blades and only guards, which, I'm under the impression is not the best option to have.

ALSO. I've noticed a good number of people say they trim their fur /before/ putting it on their heads. That seems weird to me. What do you guys do? Personally I prefer trimming it after it's all sewn and glued on. Question is -- am I making things harder on myself doing it that way? I'm open for other recommendations as far as clippers go -- I just want to buy something that's going to do a good job and last me for a while.

I'd really like feedback on this!

Looking for white seal fur

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Sorry if this question is a bit too basic, I've never actually ordered seal fur online so I'd figured I ask. qoq

Does anyone know where I can buy white seal fur that matches the white-ness of Luxury shag/Df's white? I'm afraid of ordering something that may be too ivory and am too packed for time to order a swatch. Thanks in advance! 

Sewing Machine Choices

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So recently me and the fam are getting a new sewing machine, one that can sew leather and fur. We do have a few choices in mind and we've narrowed it down to these:

this
this
and
this

We have seen all of these in stores except for the Janome HD 1000. So which one would be suitible for sewing both leather and fur?

five finger paws (in relation to DVC paw pads)

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Currently, I'm trying to figure out a pattern that is five finger style. My big problem is -- drafting one that does two things. A) fits my hand without fitting like a big glove B) the fingers are big enough for DVC K9 Paw pads.

I've modified the pattern that Matrices has so kindly offered on her website for hand paw tutorials. However, while I've made several paws that way, and tried numerous ways to get the fit better, I'm still not 100% satisfied. Do any of you know of a free to use hand paw pattern that works well for five fingers (besides tracing your hand I have terrible luck doing it that way) or might be willing to help me out with one? The biggest issue is the DVC paw pads are pretty big, and I have small fingers.

Should I be padding the insides? I'm a little lost how to tackle this and get the best results.

Casting from Paper Mache molds?

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First livejounal post ever, so bear with me if this winds up in the completely wrong spot. Recently, I recovered a nice, small pair of antlers from a buck that was sadly made roadkill near my house. It was kinda gross, but I digress. I was wondering if it would be at all possible to make a mold of them using paper mache. I've seen people cast resin with plain old printer paper before, provided it was watertight. If I cut the paper off of the horns and attach it back together with duct tape, will it withold casting? What method of casting would be sturdiest and lightest? Should I consider a material other than resin? I have no idea what I'm doing, but the antlers themselves are too heavy to use on a head, so clearly I need to make some kind of cast if I want any use out of them whatsoever. Paper mache would be the most affordable solution for a poor college student such as myself.

Kadinski V2 - Need help

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Hey guys!

I've been in the process of planning some new attributes for the original suit I got which I sold for a variety of reasons (Mainly fitting). Tailmouth construction + Need of suggestions. Lots of pictures and ideas below the cut.

Old suit parts (Pickled Lemur hands, Shagpoke tail, That'sFurredUpBodysuit, Crystumes Head)
I've still got the head for the v1 of this suit however due to DTD issues and the fact I am a tiny-person the tail dragged on the floor and the bodysuit was very, very baggy.

I've decided to take the V2 on myself, with a few changes.

Firstly, i'm thinking about tail construction. I don't want my tailmouth to be a floordragger and look dead (Like below, or a shorter one, like the original. I have been working out a way to do a full height, upright tail.



I've had thoughts about this for years, and am finalising my final designs for it and am looking for feedback accordingly:


My original idea was an expanding foam, resin and wire based project with a big silicone tongue and Drings, but it looks like for a variety of reasons it'd be more than impractical. There's alot of weight that'd be in this, and the wire would warp in time. Silicone is a pain to cast stripes in at the best of times, and it'd be an expensive risk if it were to fall out when suiting. Resin with posable hinges was also not the best initial idea, because if you hit someone in the head, or anywhere really with a  resin fursuit-sized tail it'd be a K-O.

With thinking this, I've looked into better options.

My final plan is here and i'm looking for constructive criticism before starting the project.

This has a few aspects i've never tried or seen tried before, and a few I have.

  • Foam based fursuit-style head on tail

  • Fleece jawset and posable fleece tongue

  • 1" thick foam around front and back neck-areas as well as at the lowest part of the tail's curve

  • a pool-noodle (or two) cut up to make an articulated spine/base (Similar to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kCpe2DlFxQ

  • A harness on me, and a collar/bandanna attatched at the back of the tail's "Neck" both with Drings. These will be attatched together with carabiners + plastic coated wire to mean the tail can swing it's head and body whilst staying upright.

  • Standard belt attatchment

  • "Normal" curved tail base from the belt attatchment until the curve


(Awfully lit sketch hilighting where foam would be (Not the pool noodle)

I'm looking to see if anyone has any better ideas than above to help in this really complicated project.


Thanks

Searching for a fur!

arm sleeves

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Does anyone know where I can find a tutorial for arm sleeves? They seem to deceptively simple -- and yet -- I can't figure out for the life of me where to start. What makes things more difficult is they're for a commission -- and so I need to make them to fit someone else aside from myself.

A few questions -- what measurements do you guys need when making these? My big question -- I see a number of arm sleeves are "held up" by like an elastic gimmick -- how do you know how long of a piece of elastic to use? Any help in this area would be fantastic. I've had several people inquire about commissioning me for paws with arm sleeves and I always turn them down because I haven't taught myself to make them yet. This commissioner is willing to be my guinea pig but I could use some help with this first set.

Thanks for all your help I know I've been posting a lot lately (I'll try to keep that to a minimum) but been more active with fursuit making (both for myself and to sell) and trying to step up my game and work on my quality.

On a side note, I did pick up an Andis trimmer with a 10 blade and 7F and have been getting some good results kind of playing around with those. For a while my head was looking choppy, but kept going over it slowly, and started shaving from different directions (not just going with the grain of the fur) and that seems to be making things more even. :)

Squirrel Girl HALP

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So, MegaCon is in two weeks, and I'm planning to go as Marvel's Squirrel Girl (pictured below). The green undersuit is taken care of, and the arm/leg warmers and tail are easy enough to figure out. I'm completely stuck on how to tackle that weird furry...bathing suit(?) she wears. What is that even called? It looked simple but I'm really stuck on how to approach it. I can do a DTD but I am essentially by myself with no help available at the moment. I was digging around Jo-Ann looking for a pattern that resembled this but found nothing. Is there a simple way of doing this that I'm just not seeing? I feel like this is really easy to completely mess up.

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